In the 1920s, French designer – then milliner – Coco Chanel was on the hunt for a perfume for her clients. She wanted it to describe the new, modern woman that she herself epitomised. But she had a hard time finding a perfumer who could accept the challenge.
At the time, chemists had already isolated chemicals called aldehydes, which could artificially replicate the fresh fragrances Chanel was looking for: lemon, bergamot and orange. But many perfumers were hesitant to use aldehydes, because they were so potent.
Finally, in the summer of 1920, a perfumer named Ernest Beaux answered Chanel’s request, with 10 samples. They were numbered one to five and 20 to 24. Chanel picked number five, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Over 100 years later, Chanel No. 5 still remains an iconic perfume that bottles the essence of the modern woman. But it is rumoured that the formula was actually the result of a mistake! Beaux’s assistant had added far too much aldehyde – in a quantity never used before. According to a May 2011 BBC report, Chanel later said about the perfume: “It was what I was waiting for. A perfume like nothing else.”
Iconic fragrances, like Chanel No. 5, have become historical artifacts, standing as cultural symbols that have a timeless appeal. Today, these ageless fragrances are even more popular than ever before – they retain their power, in both scent and nostalgic appeal.
If you’re looking for a signature scent that’s as wonderful today as it was decades ago, journey through our list below, curated based on user reviews, and top ratings on Amazon. We also spoke with Dan Terry, creative director of Oo La Lab, a perfume making fragrance lab based in Dubai and Singapore, who shared insights into why vintage perfumes are back, and what ingredients give them a nostalgic twist.
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1. Best Overall: Chanel No. 5
One of the most celebrated vintage perfumes of all time, Chanel No. 5 is an abstract, soft and powdery fragrance that’s both intimate and sophisticated. The perfume comprises over 80 notes, but its use of aldehydes is what sets it apart. The perfume opens with bright lemon, bergamot, ylang-ylang and neroli, transitioning to soft floral middle notes of iris, jasmine, rose, orris root and lily of the valley. It finally settles into woody base notes of musk, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, vetiver and patchouli. Reviewers share the powerful memories evoked by this perfume; many connect it to strong women in their lives, like their grandmothers.
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2. Best Amber: Guerlain Shalimar
Inspired by the love story between Indian emperor Shahjahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal – the same epic tale that resulted in the Taj Mahal – Shalimar means ‘temple of love’ in Sanskrit. As the world’s first amber perfume, it’s the fragrance that launched oriental scents in 1925. Terry said: “Perfumes [like Shalimar] didn’t just introduce new scent profiles — they created new possibilities, helping to blur the lines between gendered perfumes and opening up a world of creativity for perfumers.” A celebration of the East, Guerlain’s Shalimar opens with fresh citrus notes of bergamot, lemon, cedar and mandarin orange, which then lead to a floral bouquet of iris, jasmine and rose. Vanilla, balsam notes and tonka bean add layers of power and sensuality, giving the scent a warm and luxurious trail. Overall, it’s a complex scent that’s classic and nuanced – and it’s been loved by famous figures throughout history.
3. Best Floral: Cacharel Anais Anais
Cacharel’s first perfume, created in 1978, was an instant hit. This ultra-feminine, fresh and romantic bouquet of a scent is for people who love the intoxicating vibrancy of flowers. Its top notes are white lily, orange blossom, lavender, honeysuckle and heady hyacinth. They lead to an intensive floral heart that blends sweet rose and delicate lily of the valley with Moroccan jasmine, rose, carnations and ylang-ylang. All the floral accords lead to a warm, comforting base of amber, musk, oakmoss, leather and sandalwood. Reviewers say the perfume evokes bright optimism and happy memories; it’s light and sweet, but can feel a bit cloying if you like more balanced floral scents.
4. Best Intense Floral: Givenchy L’Interdit
For over a year, English actress Audrey Hepburn was the only one who wore L’Interdit. After all, her good friend Hubert de Givenchy made it just for her! When, in 1957, Givenchy told Hepburn he was thinking of marketing it to the public, Hepburn playfully replied: “But I forbid you!” Hence the perfume’s name, which is French for ‘forbidden’. Hepburn went on to become the face of the fragrance, which quickly became a bestseller for its sensual, floral accords. Its white notes – tuberose, orange blossom and jasmine – combine with darker, more mysterious notes of vetiver and patchouli, resulting in a fearlessly elegant scent that’s both chic and intense.
5. Best Spicy: Estée Lauder Youth Dew
In the 1950s, Youth Dew was a mainstay on vanity tables for its heady mix of warm spices, amber and woody accords. Its rich and deep fragrance was warmer and spicier than most other perfumes at the time, which tended to embrace lighter, floral notes. Youth Dew features top notes of lavender, orange, peach and bergamot, which combine with a heart of warm spices, like cloves and cinnamon, along with a medley of flowers, from roses to orchids. A delicious base of vetiver, incense, moss and patchouli causes the perfume to linger on your skin long after first application. Years after it was first launched, the scent still remains luxurious and classy – although, fair warning, it’s definitely more intense than you’d expect.
6. Best Fresh: Dior Diorrisimo
A romantic fragrance from the 1950s, Diorissimo celebrates a flower that’s beloved by the French: lily of the valley. Christian Dior was said to have called it a symbol of hope and happiness. So, it’s no wonder this scent is as gentle and luminous, as it is fresh and light. It opens with top notes of green leaves and bergamot, leading to a rich floral heart of lily of the valley, lilac, jasmine and amarylis, among other fragrant flowers. Civet and sandalwood ground the scent with their earthy notes. The fragrance evokes the best memories of happy days spent under a big, blue sky, in verdant and vibrant fields of flowers.
7. Best Luxury: Jean Patou Joy
Presented by French fashion designer Jean Patou as ‘the world’s most expensive perfume’, right at the time of the Great Depression in 1929, Joy brought a sense of optimism and escapism from routine worries. The fragrance is pricey for good reason: it features a unique concentration of rare flowers from Grasse, France. Both intense and alluring, the composition opens with fragrant jilt tuberose, ylang-ylang, rose, pear and green notes. Its heart is both sweet and fresh, with jasmine and May rose, which combine with spicy iris root, leading to a sensual base of musk, sandalwood and civet. The classic scent is one of the best representations of French elegance and sophistication, with a timeless appeal that reviewers say is ideal for special occasions.
Why are vintage perfumes back?
Gen Z likes to look back – it's evident in trends like #Y2K, which are a throwback to the unique styles of the 1990s and early 2000s. It’s a similar interest in things long past that draw people’s attention to vintage perfumes.
Terry explained: “Nostalgia is powerful, especially today, with trends like #Y2K reminding people of past eras that hold emotional significance. Perfume is deeply tied to memory, and for many, vintage fragrances evoke times of elegance, refinement, or even the rebellious spirit of a particular decade. These perfumes bring with them stories, cultural movements, and personal moments, which is why they resonate so deeply with many today. In a way, they anchor us to both our past and a shared history, offering a sense of identity in an ever-evolving world.”
Ingredients that evoke a sense of nostalgia
To the average perfume user looking for a merely pleasant scent, the rush of emotion and memory that comes with sniffing a vintage perfume can be a big surprise. It’s all because of what goes into its composition.
Terry said: “Certain ingredients immediately give off a 'vintage' feel. Chypre and fougère fragrances, for example, have roots that trace back to some of the most iconic perfumes of the 20th century. These notes are often earthy, woody, and green, with key ingredients like oakmoss, patchouli, and lavender providing a timeless backbone. Aldehydes, as well, evoke a sense of vintage sophistication — think Chanel No. 5 and its sparkling, abstract floral notes that forever changed modern perfumery.”
So, how do you go about picking your signature vintage scent?
Our expert’s advice is to start by finding a fragrance that speaks to you on a sensory and emotional level. He said: “Don’t just think about when a perfume was created — think about how it makes you feel. The experience of scent is as much about your journey as it is about history. Application-wise, I always recommend experimenting with pulse points and layering to enhance depth and longevity.”
Our recommendations are independently chosen by Gulf News editors. If you decide to shop through links on our website, we may earn an affiliate commission, as we are part of Amazon Services LLC Associates Program.
